January 2011 Update

Happy New Year

How have I missed Tzu Jan Vegetarian House for the past nine months? Am I the only one here who loves the Taiwanese flavors of a sake-like rice wine called mijui, sesame oil and soy sauce in equal amounts as a sauce or marinade and wonderful steamed pot-stickers (xia lon pao)?  I also miss artistic Chinese vegetarian food made from soy, gluten and a host of starches to look and taste like pork ribs, succulent shrimp, crispy duck and beef sausage. Jose (his Spanish name), the waiter and proprietor is from Taipei. I can not pronounce much less spell his Mandarin name. His mother is the chef and creator of all the faux meats and standard vegetarian plates of her native land.  Their small restaurant is on the second floor at the back end of Golden Plaza in Escazù, opposite Auto Star, the same location as La Patagonia, Sol O Mio and the Waffle House. Most of their dishes cost from C3000 to C4000 and are generous enough to stand alone for lunch or dinner. For the purist, of their more than three dozen menu items, tze chao, chow mi fun and shi jin su tza ken are most typically Taiwanese. Open daily from 11am to 9pm. 2289-4695.

“Dear Dr. K,

My daughter lives in Alajuela and we visit her and the grand children every January. In your November update, you rekindled memories of a dirt-cheap seafood soda in Alajuela’s central market that you touted in a column once 4-5 years ago. We looked for it on our last visit and couldn’t find. Its name was Mariscos #1. The most expensive thing there was C1500 and their ceviche was unique and delicious. Is it still there? Can you help us find it?

Thanks, Rose, Daytona Fla.”  

Good news and thanks for the memory. Mariscos Numero Uno is still there. After a sign fell on someone’s head in the market, the municipality made everyone remove hanging signs. The most expensive items are now C1850. Marlin, short for Marleni, continues to run the tiny spot in the middle of the market as she has for thirty years. For her “unique” ceviche, she uses the firm flesh of her namesake fish, marlin. To the lime juice she adds ginger ale. I love the ceviche and the seafood cascada which contains enough Salsa Lizano to render it unique as well. The market occupies an entire block. If you enter in the middle of the side closest to the park, you’ll see a potato-chip maker just inside the entrance. From there, head down the nearest aisle toward the center of the market, away from the street about 15 meters. The small faded green soda on the left is Mariscos # 1 without a sign. They have jars of cinnamon-flavored horchata (rice drink), fruit juices and chan on the counter. Chan is a gelatinous drink with tiny black seeds in it. It goes well with seafood and supposedly cures upset stomachs and heals kidney ailments. I drink it because I like the flavor.

At the back end of Plaza Florencia, the Japanese restaurant has departed. An Italian deli named Guayoyo now occupies the spacious digs with charming outdoor seating adjacent to the marble fountains. They offer pizzas, pastries, specialty coffees, jars of antipasto ingredients, Italian cold cuts, boutique vinegars and imported wines. 2289-7006. They join neighbors Bagelman’s, Soda Tapia and the Israeli deli, Sisso, to make the little plaza in Escazú, just north of Paco on the road towards Piadades, a nice location for lunch or a snack.

Bill thinks the baby beef at Kianti, a block in from the Mormon Temple in Belen, is the best steak in the country. Janet likes the steak at Patagonia in Escazú. Will, Randi, Jane and George vote for Doris Metrpolitan in Santa Ana. Jaime prefers Donde Carlos in Barrio Escalante. Several people mention the Thursday night prime rib at The White House high above Escazú as their favorite beef dish. Often mentioned as well are their Idaho baked potatoes that come with it – a great improvement over the thin-skinned local variety. If only they would bake them without the aluminum-foil wrap and let the skin get crisp and crunchy. Sandy, Gita, Bruno and Joan join the ranks of those who love MYA in Escazù. They are planning to open Sundays and close Mondays, rather than the other way around. Ali will create a Sunday brunch menu as well. Tom likes Café de Balcon, a second floor German restaurant in Atenas. I can’t wait to try it.

Closed: Vaca Loca on the former site of Saga, Crepe Suzette in Momentum

Moved: Il Gourmet from Paco to Momentum

Gone: Jean Pierre has left The Muse

La Guácima is now more accessible than it has ever been. The new entrance and exit off the Pista del Sol is only about ten minutes west of Santa Ana. As you exit, go east (right turn if you are coming from San Jose, Escazù, Santa Ana or Ciudad Colon). As you approach the river that divides La Guácima from San Rafael, there is an imposing hexagonal structure of bamboo and wrap around glass windows. Its name is Nichon’s  there is a sign and a banner on its fence advertising Mediterranean food and executive lunches at C3200. Over the course of the next few months, the rustic large restaurant will morph into a dual location  - a sports bar with the usual chicken wings, fried shrimp and other bocas to go with cold beer on tap, and a sophisticated dining emporium offering a gourmet Mediterranean menu. The proprietor, Carmen, is a charming woman who has lived and cooked in France, Spain, Italy and North Africa. She will create specialties for groups herself – bouillabaisse, rabbit, lobster, duck, etc. The regular menu is prepared by her staff. The executive lunch is well worth the price which includes service, tax and a fresh fruit beverage. Recently we had a lightly vinaigrette-dressed crisp salad, perfectly seasoned succulent skate wings as well prepared as any I have ever tasted, served with a medley of julienned vegetables grilled through but still maintaining a bit of crunch, mashed potatoes, warm French bread, our fruit drinks and chocolate cake, nearly as rich and moist as a ganache. The lunch was well worth twice the price. Unfortunately the skate was a special predicated on a fresh catch. It is not on the regular menu which includes a host of appetizer salads, soups, mussels, and cheeses from C3500 to C5800. The main courses include tenderloins with Roquefort, porcini mushrooms in a red wine reduction or a wild mushroom sauce. All are C8600, all inclusive. The salmon, corvina, chicken and pasta options cost less. We went a second time with friends Kay and Gus. Once again we had three courses and a beverage for C3200 each. We all chose and enjoyed the same main course, a chicken dish similar to coq au vin, but made with white wine. They are currently open six days a week, 11-8 on Sundays, 11-11 Tuesday thru Thursday and 11 – midnight Friday and Saturday. 2438-6618.

Comments

[Lorraineacohen76]

Three of us just returned from our first trip to Escazu. we had a pleasant surprise when we took new friends to MYA. We all had something different for dinner and shared five different apps. All were happy with the quality and quantity of the food. Service was slow when it came to coffee time, but all told, we would go baack again.