Joan and I are well into our ninth year here in paradise. We visit the States for family affairs and occasional medical imperatives, but less often than in years past. When we do go, I always plan to eat more than my share of the cuisines we don’t get here – quality Greek, Indian, German, Thai, Vietnamese, Korean and regional Chinese plus lobster and steamed clams when we go to New England.
In August and early September we flew to Seattle and drove more than four thousand miles looping through British Columbia, Southeast Alaska, parts of the Yukon and back. We found ample Greek, Indian and German eateries all along the way, even in fairly small communities. The Asian options in Seattle, Vancouver and Richmond, B.C. were astounding. In a single food court in Richmond, diners chose from Thai, Japanese, Vietnamese, Guangzhou, Hainan and Chiu Chow regional Chinese stalls. The fresh halibut in Prince Rupert and dungeness crab in Juneau rocked. We tried birch syrup and donut white peaches for the first time and avoided poutine judiciously.
Back home I began again to search anew for Asian alternatives. First stop, Hibachi. Since about a year ago, the Korean owners of Benihana in Sabana Norte replaced it with Hibachi and began advertising Japanese and Korean food. Other Korean options have disappointed me in the past. The flavors have been diluted down for Tico palates. I had heard that the Japanese portion of the menu was good, albeit a little pricey. The Korean menu offers more than most of the competition. I was impressed and ordered be-bim-bop, the quintessential rice dish of Korea. At worst, it has been lackluster plates of white rice with a little shaved beef and a few veggies. At Habachi, it was authentic and delicious – a superheated stone bowl that formed a thin crisp crust on the edge of the rice touching the bowl, the appropriate colorful additions of beef , carrot, cabbage and spinach under a fried egg on top and a generous helping of dark rust-colored hot sauce gochu-jang and tasty kimchi alongside. The kimchi may have been a little less hot than its typical Korean cousin, but the balance of red pepper, garlic and fermentation hit the spot. From the Japanese menu, Joan enjoyed her miso shiru, California roll and tempura-fried banana triangles with ice cream. As an added bonus, I got a 40% discount when I paid with my BCR card. Hours Monday through Friday: 11 to 3 and 6 to 11, Saturday: 12 to 4 and 6 to 11, Sunday 1 to 10. Telephone: 2296-0071. Location: Sabana Norte, 100 meters west of ICE .
Food in China consists of at least a dozen distinctly different cuisines and the composite is undoubtedly the most magnificent in the world. My second favorite Asian cuisine is Vietnamese because it combines aromatic and spicy parts of Thai food with many Chinese techniques and ingredients and French touches always served to be visually appealing and to contrast flavors, colors and textures. I heard of a gelato, coffee, crepe and pastry shop that served a few Vietnamese dishes, but a lukewarm review by a sophisticated food writer whom I greatly respect left me disappointed. After our trip, I missed it so, that I tried Sweet, expecting little. What a pleasant surprise. Pho is eaten for breakfast by most Vietnamese, particularly in Hanoi, but also can be served for lunch or dinner. It is a meal in a bowl that is nutritious, visually appealing, and wonderfully aromatic. There is considerable variation, but basic pho is made in the following fashion: neck bones, knuckles, and/or oxtails are simmered in large pots of water for several hours with cinnamon, star anise, shallots, garlic, and white pepper. The broth is strained and skimmed of all fat so that no globules are visible on its shiny surface. It is ladled over a large helping of cooked white thin rice noodles. Thin slices of beef brisket, tenderloin, and tendon are traditionally added, but you can request pork, chicken, or seafood instead. The bowl is accompanied by a plate of fresh bean sprouts, Asian purple basil, cilantro, lime wedges, mint and thinly sliced dark green chili peppers. It was close enough to satisfy. Pho is pronounced FAH, like a New Yorker saying FUR or FAR without sounding the R. The goi cuan, pronounced GAH KOON, is a nearly transparent roll of thin pliable rice wrapper around a filling of rice noodles, pork, shrimp and greens. Missing from the classic combination were mint and basil leaves. The Hoisin dipping sauce complimented the rolls well and the dish was satisfying. Cha gio, fried Vietnamese spring rolls are pronounced JA YO. These crispy little bundles are a treat. They also contain rice noodles, pork and greens. Their classic dipping sauce is called nuoc cham and is made from water, sugar, white vinegar, lime juice, shredded carrot and nuoc mam, fermented fish sauce. Bun means rice noodle. Bun cha gio is a classic lunch in a bowl. This four-layered dish has a crisp cold salad of cucumber, sprouts, scallions, cilantro and shredded carrots on the bottom covered by a layer of cold thin bun noodles. The top solid layer is made of cha gio logs and shaved pork. Technically it should include Bo, the word for pork, on the menu. The fourth layer is the same as the dipping sauce for spring rolls, nuoc chom. Many diners simply pour it over the top. There are nine different Vietnamese choices on the menu. We also shared an order of nicely charcoal-grilled pork pieces called thit nuong. Beverages include a host of well-executed fruit combo smoothies, classic Vietnamese coffee dripped into sweet condensed milk and a new marvelous combination for me, iced puree of cucumber and lime juice. With a decadent dessert crepe (one of eight choices) who could ask for more? The batter tasted just like my mother’s. The prices are rock-bottom. Except for the pho and bun cha gio (C4500), every other dish cost between C1500 and 2500. Monday through Friday they also serve six different breakfast specials in the same price range beginning at 7:30 AM. They open at 11 on weekends, close at 9 PM everyday. Location: behind Scotia Bank, in Boulevard Lindora, the smaller mall next to Momentum on the Santa Ana Radial. Phone: 2203-6969.
Café De Las Artistas is closed, I assume for a makeover by its new owners who have a barbecue restaurant in South Florida.
Also gone is Tilapia Park near Turrucares where kids used to catch tilapia and have them prepared in the poolside restaurant for lunch. My grandchildren will be heartbroken.
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