Outstanding chefs are precious commodities. At times one performs admirably but the restaurant doesn`t survive because of prices, location or an unsustainable business plan. So it seemed when master chef Giuseppe Galuppo lost his kitchen at Antonio's in Plaza Lindora. Fortunately for us, he has reemerged at D'amalfi in Centro Comercial Plaza Atlantis in Escazu, up the hill from Scotia Bank. The tastefully appointed restaurant with al fresco seating out front opened six months ago and has seen its popularity increase steadily despite the number of good Italian restaurants in the area. Chef Galuppo has a staff of four cooks and a kitchen that turns out attractive, creative, very nicely seasoned food at prices that seem reasonable and are below the more expensive of his competitors. Gita and Sandy have been having lunch there for a few months on the days that they paint together. Both have high food standards and both are fans. So too are the thirty-three members of the Wine Club who descended in force at the end of May. The service is polished, professional and attentive. My favorites on the menu are linguini with clams and mussels in a sauce that is light and deliciously reflective of the sea; eggplant Parmesan with paper thin slices and a perfect balance of texture and taste; Cesar salad with enough anchovy in the dressing to achieve authenticity; and caprese salad made with buffalo mozzarella. Telephone 2228-6270. They open at noon every day and close at 9 p.m. on Sunday, at 11 p.m. on Saturday and at 10 p.m. the other five days.
The owners of the Beacon Hotel bought the White House and are doing a large room renovation. In the meantime, the restaurant and Thursday night prime rib special remains intact. Café de Las Artistas has changed hands. The owners of Sonny's Barbecue in South Florida bought it.
It is easy enough to make authentic tasting Italian sausage. All you do is season ground pork or a mixture of pork and beef with salt, red chili pepper flakes and fennel seeds. Still, I can’t buy any other than frozen packages from the States. We had lunch at Il Padrino a few weeks ago and I noticed Italian sausage calzone on the menu. I badgered the poor waitress about my desire for real Italian sausage before ordering. She assured me that I would get the real stuff. Alas, it was typical Tico ground sausage meat seasoned with a little oregano, salt and pepper and the calzone pastry was under-done. Even the “Italian sausage” at Tom Tom in Escazu just past Sorretto`s Market and Zum Shinckenpeter in its new digs across the parking lot from HSBC on the Santa Ana or Lindora Radial disappoint. Both make decent German-style sausage.
La Ribera shopping center in Belen has witnessed the demise of a number of restaurants in the past decade including two French, two Japanese, an Italian, a coffee and pastry shop, a chicken place that served paella and a pupuseria. If memory serves me correctly, about two years ago there were three Japanese venues, Sensu, Ichiban and a lounge run by Ichiban two doors away. Only the lounge location survived. In its current incarnation of about a year and a half, it has been Novoa Living Sushi. I hope it prospers long term because it deserves to. I believe that the young woman who owned Ichiban and the lounge still owns it. The imaginative menu design and recipes of original chef Jorge Ortiz have been preserved. Roger, the young chef on the premises does a fine job. His tempura is outstanding. I found no fault with sushi, sashimi or bento boxes. His presentations are artistic. Ingredients were fresh. The prices are a little lower than the competition, the venue pristine and service excellent. 2560-8020. Monday and Thursday from 12:00 m.d. to 3:00 p.m. and from 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. Friday & Saturday from 12 m.d. to 11 p.m. Sunday from 12 m.d. to 10:00 p.m.
In the little strip mall on the road in Santa Ana that runs from the Pista del Sol to Cruz Roja, Bufalo Grill and Market shares the limited parking with Product C and Lo Spago. The meat is all from Asian water buffalos by way of Guatemala, raised in Guanacaste. The lean flavorful steaks, chops and burgers have only half the saturated fat and cholesterol as cows. Like all other grass fed lean meat, it isn’t as juicy or tender as corn fed American beef. If that is a problem for you, try the very well prepared burgers or the short ribs. The ribs I ate were fall-off-the-bone tender short ribs, smoked and flavored perfectly with a spice rub and sprayed with tamarind sauce. They were so good that my mostly-vegetarian wife took about half a dozen bites. The order was quite large with enough leftover for a generous sandwich the next day. I chose an ear of corn and a baked potato as my two sides. Both were fine. Joan had a large salad of fresh greens, toasted pecans, buffalo mozzarella and pears bathed in grape oil, honey, rice vinegar dressing. Rosemary flat bread came to the table in a basket. With one beverage, the bill came to C11000. The setting is simple and tasteful. They carry Chilean, Argentinean and Italian wines. Their market sells a variety of buffalo meats including the same lean short ribs for C4100 per kilo. The owner, Luis Gomez from Venezuela, is most pleasant. The menu is quite varied and most imaginative. Four salads, two soups and a bevy of appetizers complement the usual variety of cuts of beef one finds in the upscale steak house at comparable cost. The appetizers, sandwiches and side dishes carry Italian/Mediterranean overtones, but even include a Philly steak sandwich. It is seven ounces of juicy buffalo meat, sliced into julienne strips, which are grilled, topped with melted cheddar cheese and caramelized onions served with rustic potatoes or French fries. The desserts sounded interesting as well. Telephone: 2282-4122. Open Mon-Thurs. 12 m.d. to 3 p.m. and 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. Friday-Saturday 12:00 m.d. to 10:00 p.m. and Sunday 12:00 m.d. to 9:00 p.m.
I love the success story behind the "D'amalfi." Recently, saw in the internet how they serve linguine and it looks very delicious! I hope I can get to visit the restaurant and taste it for myself, if I ever get a chance to go to Costa Rica.
Posted by: Larissa Dobbin | July 27, 2011 at 05:54 AM
Lenny,
El Loco Natural in Puerto Viejo changed its name to Stashu. The food is great. Loved the Trinidadian sauce.
Posted by: Allegra Troiano | July 17, 2011 at 05:01 PM