October 2010 Update

Will commented on my description of the fine food at Fusion in Grécia. “Sounds wonderful, especially the whole fish. I’ll have to see how it compares with my favorite rendition of the same dish at The Red Stripe Café in Puerto Viejo.”  Well, Will, I wish you luck. My notes may be wrong, but I wrote that the once very popular café in Puerto Viejo closed at least a few years ago. If you have information to the contrary, please let us know.

The new Greek restaurant on the service road south of La Sabana is a welcome addition to the panoply of ethnic eateries. Thus far it hasn’t dazzled any of three diners who reported to me, but it is too early for me to judge. I’ll give it another month and try it.

Two blocks east on the same street sits the architecturally stunning Beso, with a striking collection of modern art. Its kitchen is currently in disarray to the frustration of the owner, clientele and amiable wait-staff. I’ll give it another few months and try it again.

Aya Sofia, another new Mediterranean restaurant has impressed a few diners. We are planning to try it soon. It is located in Barrio Escalante, 170 meters north of Bagelman’s.

Bobbie likes the improved cuisine at Patagonia in Escazú, 500 meters south of Multiplaza in Golden Plaza. “Try it again,” he suggests. We shall.

Janet loves the breakfasts and baked goods at Robin’s Kitchen in old Escazú, across the street and fifty meters west of the Beacon Hotel. Look for the sign that says “Coffee Shop”. Janet says that all five options are very tasty. Robin’s desserts, salads, quiche, eggplant and lasagna are all praiseworthy. I haven’t tasted her chicken curry yet, but her mocha pie seems to be everyone’s favorite. I ordered a piece and was not disappointed.  My favorites are her eggs Benedict and ginger cookies.

While on the subject of the Beacon and its gorgeous restaurant The Muse, two lovers of Jean Pierre’s food, confided that they would go there more often if he were to vary the menu a bit.

Two other couples agree that Avi’s cuisine at Gloria Metropolitan in Santa Ana is exceptional. As far as I know, Avi is the third Israeli chef in Costa Rica. The other two are Na’ama and David. She prepares fabulous food at Loveat, the vegetarian restaurant at the animal-friendly Lands of Love resort on the road between San Ramon and La Fortuna. She even offers vegan, gluten-free and Jewish-style options. David does the cooking at Sisso, Taste of Jerusalem in Florencia Mall in Escazú, south of Paco towards Guachipelen. His food is as authentic Israeli as any I have had in Latin America, with excellent falafel, shipood kabob, chicken shuwerma, hummus, eggplant and baklava. All the plates are less than C4000 and come with pita, salad and either fries or turmeric scented rice. Telephone 2288-4737.

Ron and Lee were disappointed in their evening meals at Café des Artistas. They described the food as “pedestrian”. Reviews are mixed. Carol and Nancy had positive lunch experiences. Two other friends were less complimentary. The consensus still raves about breakfasts and weekend brunches.

I have been blessed to have eaten at some of the world’s best restaurants including  Taillevent and Le Grand Véfour in Paris, Troisgros in Roanne, the French Laundry in Yountville, Daniel in New York City, Commander’s Palace in New Orleans, Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, the original Masa’s in San Francisco and Steirereck in Vienna. When I encounter a new world class restaurant, I feel compelled to share, even if this one is in Medellin, Colombia.

Mystique is owned by fabulous young chef Juan Pablo Valencia Duque. Despite his youth (31 years old), he is a well-traveled, superbly-trained chef and choreographer of a kitchen that has the precision of a ballet. His studies have taken him to Paris, Croatia, Barcelona, Beijing, Miami, New York and Washington in a bevy of famous and award-winning restaurants. He considers Jordi Vallès from Barcelona his mentor. Vallès has worked with three leaders of the culinary revolution in Catalunia and nearby Basque country, Ms. Pedro Subijana - author teacher and creator of groundbreaking new recipes in her restaurant, Juan Mari Arzak – the scion of New Basque cuisine, and Ferrán Adrià -the most acclaimed molecular chef in the world. We let Juan Pablo choose our menu.

Cream of petit pois, arugula and asparagus soup topped with vanilla bean oil, some pecorino cheese and black sesame seeds; served in small demitasse cup with a piece of homemade brioche, toasted and served with a butter of carrot, pancetta and a sweet chili infused oil.

Ceviche of robalo (snook) marinated in mandarin lime juice for only four minutes, cut into perfect cubes with retained firm texture, combined with cilantro, red onion, sweet chile and smoked fresh corn kernels; topped with smoked corn foam and a dusting of cayenne; served in a martini glass on a Villery and Boche plate studded with red and peach colored flowers on a gold background.  The foam was warm and the ceviche was cold. I have never tasted better. The variety of textures and layers of flavor were amazing.

A very generous portion of foie gras served on a brioche round surrounded by porcini cream on the bottom of bowl; topped by  a reduction of demiglace with fig pieces that had been cooked in cognac and a half of a marinated fig, topped with a candied crisp leaf from a brussel sprout and fleur de sal. A palate cleanser of grape and cointreau sorbet followed.

The four of us (Juan and Nancy – Colombian ex-pats living in Costa Rica) shared four main plates, two of hamachi tataki and two of osso bucco. The yellow tail was topped with a vinaigrette of lime, lobster stock, tarragon and parsley. It was served with a small tureen of a mix of basmati rice and toasted white rice perfumed with orange blossom water and plated with roasted slices of baby artichoke hearts that looked like miniature soft-shell crabs.

The osso bucco was slow-cooked for fourteen hours, then placed in a hot oven for 20 minutes to crisp the top skin. The fat under the skin melted into sensuous liquid in my mouth. Served on a bed of caramelized onions decorated with baby brussel sprouts and carrot cubes cooked in ghee, the meat was butter-tender and deliciously flavored. The combination of textures and flavors were mouth-tingling.   

Dessert came in two parts: First a granita of yerba buena and cubes of rum-infused gelatin layered with mojito/lime foam in small glass ringed with sugar, and second, dried thin slices of apple wrapped to look like tiny ice cream cones and filled with a chocolate mousse.

We sat at the chef’s table and witnessed the plating of each dish by Chef Juan Pablo and 21 year-old sous chef  Sebastian. They clearly have the manual dexterity of neurosurgeons and the eyes of artists.

With a bottle of good Chilean red and a complimentary after-dinner drink, the tariff for the four of us came to $75 each, truly a great value for a memorable meal. We applauded the chef when he came to our table at end of three hours of gustatory orgasms.

The night before our meal, Chef Juan Pablo was chosen to cook a special banquet for President Santos. He was selected by the Culinary Academie de France to participate in the 2010 international competition, the Trophee Passion, where he will represent Columbia.  Mandatory course is a tubot souffle (a type of fish not available in Colombia).  He is allowed to bring three ingredients and so he is bringing Columbian coffee, raspberries from Bogota and Russian beluga caviar.  The competition will be held from October 9-12.

Are you going to put Medellin on your next itinerary? If so, book a table at Mystique.  You won’t be disappointed.  The address and phone are: Carrera 33 # 7 - 55, Medellin, Columbia; Phone:  (0)311 82 21
 

Comments

[Rodolfo Ulloa]

Lenny: the Greek restaurant in south Sabana (Niklas) is actually a gyro-kebab type of place. It has the feel of a fast food place and the menu reflects that vibe (nice nonetheless). So do not expect full-greek menu. Having said that, the gyros are quite good and their hummus is definitely one of the best in town.

[ro-e]

love your blog man :)